Tamzin Stanney

About Tamzin Stanney

Posts by Tamzin Stanney:

Purpose

⋅

The final pillar to be explored is ‘purpose’, answering the question, ‘what would the world lose if your organisation disappeared?’. This is the question that brands must ask themselves to remain relevant in such a dynamic market.

Brand philosophy is hugely important, enabling a brand to have a USP relative to other brands, used as an incredibly strong branding tool. Therefore, brands begin to see loyal customers who are willing to repeat purchase and see value within a brand whose beliefs align with theirs. Recently, there has been an increase in the number of shoppers engaging in resale and purchasing second-hand clothing on sites such as Vinted. Vinted state on their website, ‘Vinted promotes reuse by helping you keep fashion and other items in circulation for longer, which is a key way to reduce the emissions produced by the fashion industry’ (Vinted, 2023). From this, we can gather that consumers are becoming increasingly politically and socially aware of the impacts of fast fashion. Therefore, to make progressive change, brands must place importance on their purpose whilst deeply understanding their consumer. 

Gen Z are commonly referred to as digital natives, explaining why most brands communicate their purpose digitally (McKinsey & Company, 2023). This may be through a page on their website clearly stating their mission, a sustainability report or through collaborations such as Nike x Billie Eilish AF1 Low, where leftover material from the artist’s previous collaboration with the brand was used (Nike, 2022). Nike have used star appeal but also stood by their claims on the ‘Impact’ page of the Nike website, clearly stating their commitments surrounding topics like diversity and responsible sourcing, ensuring their product portfolio aligns with brand values (McKinsey & Company, 2020) (Nike, 2023).

Influencer marketing is becoming an increasingly popular choice for brands wanting to attract Gen Z consumers since social media has become an integral part of Gen Z’s everyday lives, knowing that as of June 2023 in the UK, 94% of Gen Z were using social media (Statista, 2023). Gen Z favour relatability, explaining why Gen Z may be more inclined to engage in user- generated content, as well as the idea that they want to ‘breathe new life into what corporate responsibility looks like’ (McKinsey & Company, 2020) (Salukov, 2023). Gen Z are not hesitant to expose brands who are not acting according to their mission either. Therefore, brands should aim to be as authentic as possible when communicating with Gen Z, attempting to attract them as a customer through content fit for mobile consumption (Balis, 2023).

Bibliography

Balis, J., 2023. How the Best Brand- Influencer Partnerships Reach Gen Z. [Online] 
Available at: https://artslondon-my.sharepoint.com/personal/r_zilkha_fashion_arts_ac_uk/_layouts/15/onedrive.aspx?id=%2Fpersonal%2Fr%5Fzilkha%5Ffashion%5Farts%5Fac%5Fuk%2FDocuments%2FFBS%20Intro%20To%2FFBS%2DIntro%20To%202023%2FLectures%20and%20Seminars%2FWeek%205%2FHo
[Accessed 28 October 2023].

McKinsey & Company, 2020. Meet Generation Z: Shaping the future of shopping. [Online] 
Available at: https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/consumer-packaged-goods/our-insights/meet-generation-z-shaping-the-future-of-shopping
[Accessed 29 October 2023].

McKinsey & Company, 2020. More than a mission statement: How the 5Ps embed purpose to deliver value. [Online] 
Available at: https://www.mckinsey.com/capabilities/strategy-and-corporate-finance/our-insights/more-than-a-mission-statement-how-the-5ps-embed-purpose-to-deliver-value
[Accessed 26 October 2023].

McKinsey & Company, 2023. What is Gen Z?. [Online] 
Available at: https://www.mckinsey.com/featured-insights/mckinsey-explainers/what-is-gen-z
[Accessed 28 October 2023].

Nike, 2022. Nike x Billie Eilish AF1 Low. [Online] 
Available at: https://about.nike.com/en/newsroom/releases/nike-x-billie-eilish-af1-low
[Accessed 29 October 2023].

Nike, 2023. Impact: Moving Forward. [Online] 
Available at: https://about.nike.com/en/impact
[Accessed 28 October 2023].

Salukov, D., 2023. Gen Z Influencer Marketing: What Marketers Should Know (2023). [Online] 
Available at: https://insense.pro/blog/gen-z-influencer-marketing#:~:text=Influencer%20marketing%20is%20a%20great,relationships%20and%20drive%20brand%20awareness.
[Accessed 29 October 2023].

Statista, 2023. UK: social media users 2023, by generation. [Online] 
Available at: https://www.statista.com/statistics/1401041/uk-social-media-users-by-generation/#:~:text=As%20of%20June%202023%20in,2012%2C%20were%20using%20social%20media.
[Accessed 29 October 2023].

Vinted, 2023. Sustainability: Second-hand: better for you and the climate. [Online] 
Available at: https://company.vinted.com/sustainability
[Accessed 26 October 2023].

Liked Liked
No Comments
image

Profit

⋅

The third pillar is ‘profit’. Profit is a way of defining success. It allows for continuous improvement within a brand as well as improving the experience of the consumer. Although profit is important, a brand must also balance this with ethics and creativity. 

The fashion industry is a global one. Worldwide, the revenue of the apparel market reached a value of 1.53 trillion U.S. dollars (2022), expected to increase by more than 25% by 2027. (Statista, 2022). It is also important to note that spending is not equal in all areas of the world, with China ($380bn) and the USA ($370) dominating the market (Lissaman, 2019). 

A brand may experience multiple stages including growth, stagnation, decline, revitalisation and even administration (Mitterfellner, 2023). Many brands have suffered throughout the duration of the pandemic, with companies leaving the market either due to financial pressure or due to acquisitions (McKinsey & Company, 2022). A brand may choose to increase profit by diversifying into different sectors when demand is there. For example, the activewear market flourished with the shift in consumer needs when the pandemic hit, demanding a ‘work from home’ wardrobe. Consumers also engaged in ‘revenge spending’ post pandemic as a celebration, spending their savings on luxury goods, meaning the luxury sector remains strong (McKinsey & Company, 2022). The secondhand apparel market value worldwide is also increasing year by year. This goes hand in hand with the greater emphasis now being placed upon sustainability.

(Statista, 2023)

In times of economic uncertainty, brands need to understand their target consumer in order to remain competitive. Consistency in doing so will allow a brand to adapt according to fast-paced trends. To accurately forecast consumer demand, a brand may consider collaboration to gain access to data (Rahilly, 2022). Throughout the pandemic, consumers have had time to think about their consumption patterns. Fuelling this, are brands being exposed for unethical practices, such as Shein, meaning consumers now demand transparency throughout a brand’s whole supply chain. Therefore, if a brand is transparent, demand will increase, increasing revenue.

A creative director’s collections must create revenue and fully understanding the brand’s ‘visual DNA’ (Mitterfellner, 2023). Karl Lagerfeld balanced creativity with commerce, overseeing three brands simultaneously, joining Fendi in 1965, becoming creative director at Chanel in 1983 and founding his own label in 1984 (Mitterfellner, 2023). At Fendi, Lagerfeld designed the iconic FF logo, making the brand extremely marketable, giving creative vision to multiple aspects of the brand. At Chanel Lagerfeld was the face of the brand and his iconic style was seen throughout marketing materials, emphasising his status and dominance within the industry.

(Rex Features, 2011)

Brands must stay profitable despite losing a creative director (Mitterfellner, 2023). After the passing of Virgil Abloh, Louis Vuitton appointed Pharrell Williams as their Creative Director (2023). They knew from past collaborations that he would ‘undoubtedly lead Louis Vuitton towards a new and very exciting chapter’ (LVMH, 2023).

Bibliography

Lissaman, C., 2019. The Size of the Global Fashion Retail Market. [Online] 
Available at: https://www.commonobjective.co/article/the-size-of-the-global-fashion-retail-market
[Accessed 17 October 2023].

LVMH, 2023. Louis Vuitton appoints Pharrell Williams as its new Men’s Creative Director. [Online] 
Available at: https://www.lvmh.com/news-documents/news/louis-vuitton-appoints-pharrell-williams-as-its-new-mens-creative-director/#:~:text=Paris%2C%20February%2014th%2C%202023,Men%27s%20Fashion%20Week%20in%20Paris.
[Accessed 21 October 2023].

McKinsey & Company, 2022. The State of Fashion 2023: Holding onto growth as global clouds gather, s.l.: s.n.

McKinsey & Company, 2022. Winners take all in global apparel, fashion, and luxury. [Online] 
Available at: https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/retail/our-insights/winners-take-all-in-global-apparel-fashion-and-luxury
[Accessed 21 October 2023].

Mitterfellner, O., 2023. Luxury Fashion Brand Management. s.l.:Routledge.

Rahilly, R. F. &. L., 2022. How current global trends are disrupting the fashion industry. s.l.:s.n.

Statista, 2022. Fashion & Accessories. [Online] 
Available at: https://www.statista.com/markets/423/topic/463/fashion-accessories/#overview
[Accessed 20 October 2023].

https://www.statista.com/statistics/826162/apparel-resale-market-value-worldwide/

https://media.vogue.co.uk/photos/5d54482edf3584000807c11d/1:1/w_960,c_limit/klagerfeld_v_25mar11_rex_b.jpg

Liked Liked
No Comments
image

People

⋅

The second pillar to be explored is ‘People’. Generation Z are the second youngest generation, with millennials before and Generation Alpha after (McKinsey & Company, 2023). It is important to understand the differences in patterns of consumption within these generations for success.

So, how can Gen Z consumers be described? Consumption for Gen Z is about access not ownership (McKinsey & Company, 2023). They are more inclined to rent clothing, for example, with 13.6% having rented in 2022 and would do again, up from 11.2% in 2021 (Moran, 2022). Gen Z are also to thank for the rise in fashion resale and sites like Vinted where greater value is being placed on clothes we purchase.

(Moran, 2022)

Gen Z believe in individuality; therefore, they will purchase a product which reflects them, being more openminded and diverse. Gen Z are also concerned with ethics and favour transparency and there are now certain expectations of brands (Francis & Hoefel, 2018).

Gen Z are digital natives, being the first generation to grow up online and brands can take advantage of this and attract Gen Z consumers (Moran, 2022). Gen Z would argue that it is important that new technology is approached with optimism, contrasting previous generations whose fears may be worsened with new technology emerging like AI. Brands must acknowledge that Gen Z tastes may change and be flexible. They should also have a political/ ethical edge with a clear mission, stating their values clearly. Gen Z embrace diversity. Therefore, brands should make every effort to be open-minded at every stage of decision making, ensuring inclusivity.

Nike have created campaigns such as ‘Dream Crazier’, in response to diversity. The release of the Nike Pro hijab encouraged Muslim women to get involved in sports whilst feeling comfortable and confident. Nowadays, we are presented with a variety of mannequins with different body types in stores through plus sized mannequins and amputee mannequins (Baram, 2019). Therefore, Nike are subverting the typification that disability limits an individual’s ability within sports. Consumers have been socialised into the dominant culture where white, male, heteronormative and able-bodied identities are presented as ‘ideal’ against other identities which are marginalised, explaining why representation and being able to celebrate our differences is important (Franklin, 2023).

(Baram, 2019)

A successful fashion brand needs to adopt certain key people skills within the 5 dimensions to the Inner Development Goals, ‘fundamental in the work to reach the Sustainable Development Goals’ (Inner Development Goals, 2023). Some being co-creation skills, perspective skills and having a learning mindset (Inner Development Goals, 2023). Societies will become interconnected where effective progress can be made.

Bibliography

Baram, C., 2019. Nike’s new mannequins are a celebration of diversity. [Online] 
Available at: https://www.mintel.com/retail-market-news/nikes-new-mannequins-are-a-celebration-of-diversity/
[Accessed 13 October 2023].

Francis & Hoefel, 2018. ‘True Gen’: Generation Z and its implications for companies. [Online] 
Available at: https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/consumer-packaged-goods/our-insights/true-gen-generation-z-and-its-implications-for-companies
[Accessed 11 October 2023].

Franklin, C., 2023. The Power of One: exploring identity and challenging dominant culture demands of all humans. s.l.:s.n.

Inner Development Goals, 2023. Resources. [Online] 
Available at: https://www.innerdevelopmentgoals.org/resources
[Accessed 14 October 2023].

Inner Development Goals, 2023. The 5 dimensions with the 23 skills and qualities. [Online] 
Available at: https://www.innerdevelopmentgoals.org/framework
[Accessed 13 October 2023].

Inner Development Goals, 2023. The Initiative. [Online] 
Available at: https://www.innerdevelopmentgoals.org
[Accessed 13 October 2023].

McKinsey & Company, 2023. What is Gen Z?. [Online] 
Available at: https://www.mckinsey.com/featured-insights/mckinsey-explainers/what-is-gen-z
[Accessed 12 October 2023].

Moran, G., 2022. [Online] 
Available at: https://www.drapersonline.com/guides/gen-z-and-millennials-2022
[Accessed 14 October 2023].

Triana, J., 2022. Everything You Need To Know About Hiring Gen Z. [Online] 
Available at: https://sidecarglobal.com/organizational-culture/everything-you-need-to-know-about-hiring-gen-z/
[Accessed 14 October 2023].

Liked Liked
No Comments
image

Planet

⋅

The first pillar to be explored is ‘Planet’. It is crucial that we understand how we are contributing to the climate crisis we have created. Therefore, we can put in place regenerative systems to work towards a sustainable and responsible fashion industry. Growing carbon emissions, concerns regarding animal welfare, deforestation and the contamination of the Earth’s water and soil indicate that the current fashion industry is simply something we cannot sustain.

The circular economy emphasises the importance of using renewable resources and creating regenerative systems within industries whilst meeting customer demand. Moving away from the linear mode of thinking (take-make-waste model) involves considering ways to repair, reuse, refurbish and recycle products (Gueye, 2021). However, we must understand that recycling is the last resort. We should make every effort to carry out one of the previous ‘Re’ practices, to ensure we are getting the absolute most out of our garments. We are beginning to see designers such as Patrick McDowell emphasise the importance of brand building around the Sustainable Development Goals with ‘Reimagine’ collections, ‘collections that save and monetise past season fabrics and clothing’ (PATRICK McDOWELL, 2023).

Circular Economy in the Fashion Industry
https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=https%3A%2F%2Fellenmacarthurfoundation.org%2Farticles%2Fthe-trends-and-trailblazers-creating-a-circular-economy-for-fashion&psig=AOvVaw24dluyIEj4FyLYLLQOjRjg&ust=1696778633317000&source=images&cd=vfe&opi=89978449&ved=0CBAQjRxqFwoTCOiSz4-f5IEDFQAAAAAdAAAAABAQ

A sustainable process does not deplete resources for further generations. In relation to fashion, we must not only think about ways we discard of our clothing, but also consider how production processes are impacting our planet too. We see water and chemical intensive crops such as cotton having detrimental impacts, with one single cotton t-shirt requiring 2700 litres to be made (Whalen, 2022). Cellulose fibres such as viscose involve deforestation and inevitably, loss of biodiversity. However, consumers now demand transparency, meaning we can get a much deeper insight into brands and their supply chains. This way, consumers can make informed decisions on which brands they support.

The 17 SDG’s, introduced by the United Nations In 2015 suggest ways to achieve a sustainable future for all by 2030 (United Nations, 2023). Goal 12 is ‘Responsible consumption and production’. This is hugely relevant since by 2050, the equivalent of almost three planets could be required to sustain current lifestyles (United Nations, 2023). As a response to micro trends, consumers feel a constant need to ‘keep up’, therefore leading to irresponsible consumption. This goes hand in hand with the current issue of overproduction. Brands may begin to look at made to order models to produce more responsibly whilst meeting demand. Effectively dealing with overproduction could reduce carbon emissions by 158 million tonnes a year (Moran, 2022). We can also embrace collaboration between industries. For example, the food and fashion industry. Innovations such as mushroom-derived and more plant-based leathers are arising as alternatives (Talamo, 2022).

It is evident that an increasing number of brands are being driven by sustainability which indicates that we are heading in the right direction, despite the vast amount of work still to be done.

Bibliography

Gueye, S., 2021. The trends and trailblazers creating a circular economy for fashion. [Online] 
Available at: https://ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/articles/the-trends-and-trailblazers-creating-a-circular-economy-for-fashion
[Accessed 7 October 2023].

Igini, M., 2023. 10 Concerning Fast Fashion Waste Statistics: EARTH.ORG. [Online] 
Available at: https://earth.org/statistics-about-fast-fashion-waste/
[Accessed 6 October 2023].

Moran, G., 2022. Collaborating for Change: Sustainability Report 2022. [Online] 
Available at: https://www.drapersonline.com/guides/collaborating-for-change-sustainability-report-2022
[Accessed 7 October 2023].

PATRICK McDOWELL, 2023. Sustainability. [Online] 
Available at: https://patrickmcdowell.co.uk/pages/sustainability
[Accessed 7 October 2023].

Shukla, N., 2022. EARTH.ORG. [Online] 
Available at: https://earth.org/fast-fashion-pollution-and-climate-change/#:~:text=Fashion%20and%20its%20supply%20chain,and%20the%20aviation%20industry%20combined.
[Accessed 5 October 2023].

Talamo, L., 2022. Mushroom leather and orange-peel silk- fashion innovators bring compassion to clothing. [Online] 
Available at: https://ladyfreethinker.org/leather-from-mushrooms-and-silk-from-orange-peels-fashion-innovators-working-for-a-more-compassionate-future/
[Accessed 7 October 2023].

United Nations, 2023. Take Action for the Sustainable Development Goals. [Online] 
Available at: https://www.un.org/sustainabledevelopment/sustainable-development-goals/
[Accessed 7 October 2023].

Whalen, V., 2022. Fast Fashion and Climate Change 101. [Online] 
Available at: https://acespace.org/2022/06/17/fast-fashion-101/#:~:text=Per%20year%2C%20the%20industry%20contributes,through%20clothing%20and%20textile%20waste.
[Accessed 7 October 2023].

Liked Liked
No Comments
IMG_4217

My Current Favourite Fashion Brand

⋅

Nigel Xavier

When asked what my current favourite brand is I had to think. I feel like because the industry is so dynamic and trends come and go, my favourites constantly change. I thought about Erdem, Gaurav Gupta and BODE. I love these brands for different reasons but currently I am a huge fan of Nigel Xavier.

I first discovered Nigel’s work through season 2 of the Netflix fashion competition show called Next in Fashion, presented by Tan France and Gigi Hadid where he won $200,000 and the opportunity to launch a collection on Rent the Runway. I immediately connected with his work due to its sustainable and innovative nature.

Nigel re-works pre-existing garments and plays on textile manipulation and patchworking using a variety of different materials such as denim as well as experimenting with extreme proportions which I admire. The androgynous and subversive nature of Nigel’s work is also what attracts me, as someone who will shop in any section regardless of gender. What really stood out to me is Nigel’s archive collection which was as he described, ‘an accumulation of pieces I made since 2016 until now leading up to the shows release.’ This ranged from intricate crochet garments to re-worked denim and much more. 

I felt strongly inspired by Nigel’s story when he explained his upbringing and the fact that he grew up with little money, therefore leading him to demonstrate his creativeness in re-working his wardrobe. I feel as though this is an important message that our generation needs to hear. We get so caught up in the world of fast fashion and a vast amount of people have adopted a ‘wear-it-once’ mentality which is inevitably harming the planet. The more designers and brands we have promoting ideologies of sustainability whilst also being ‘trendy’ and what is seen as ‘stylish’ to consumers, the more educated and open-minded we become and therefore leading us to make progressive and impactful changes.

Liked Liked
No Comments