Matilda Rotsa

With purpose being the final pillar out of the four, it is essential for brands to have an established vision in order to succeed. Purpose allows a brand to stand out and set themselves apart from other competitors. Whilst some brands focus on sustainability, others may have aims to subvert societal conventions through clothing. This not only gives the brand motivation as they are constantly looking to improve and chase a goal, but this also becomes a motivation for consumers to support the brand.

First and foremost, brand philosophy is important as it differentiates a brand from others and portrays them as unique, thus making consumers believe that they cannot find this elsewhere consequently leading to more sales and therefore more profit. Moreover, purpose forces brands to think about how to progress, especially during a period where the online world is taking over and inflation is becoming a more stressing issue. Many brands are beginning to rethink their values due to changes within society and one example of this is ASOS. During lockdown, ASOS began to shift towards a more inclusive mindset by employing a diverse range of models and creating a larger size range. As a result, ASOS continued to make sales which reinforces how a brand’s mission is key. Furthermore, brand philosophy is significant as it enables consumers, specifically Gen Z, to identify themselves with the brand. Gen Z collectively demands that brands take accountability, create more opportunities for minorities and act on sustainability. In one McKinsey study (2023), nine out of ten Gen Zers believe that companies have a responsibility to address environmental and social issues. Brands now have an obligation to have strong values due to the demands of Gen Z and this emphasises the growing changes within the fashion industry.

Brands communicate their purpose to Gen Z in several ways. Now, the most impactful method is through online platforms, more specifically social media. Brands have capitalised on social media marketing as it is a priceless tool in reaching mass audiences and relating to Gen Z. TikTok currently rules culture for Gen Zers, who make up 60 percent of the app’s one billion-plus users (McKinsey & Company, 2023), thus proving that brands have the chance to express their brand philosophy. Additionally, brands communicate their purpose by using influencers that share similar values to them which perhaps brings a new audience to the brand and increases popularity. This also reinforces the brands ethos rather than simply stating that the brand is sustainable or is looking towards change.

Reference List:

What is Gen Z? (2023) McKinsey & Company. Available at: https://www.mckinsey.com/featured-insights/mckinsey-explainers/what-is-gen-z (Accessed 11/10/2023) 

Whilst satisfying the needs of customers is important, the underlying goal for brands is profit and success. Profit enables a brand to move forward and is often a motivation for many however, with the cost-of-living crisis and inflation increasing, profit is declining, and brands are struggling to stay afloat.

Although the fashion industry is massive and could be seen as the most lucrative industry in the world, there is generally a lack of growth compared to previous years. The four sectors are performing negatively, and one could argue that this is due to several factors including the war in Ukraine, Brexit, and lockdown. According to a report by McKinsey (2023), high street brands will struggle more so than before, and brands are anticipating that inflation will spike their costs. For instance, cotton and cashmere prices have increased 45 percent and 30 percent year on year (Guyot, 2022). Consequently, the fashion industry is suffering, and many brands have been forced to reduce employee sizes or even close altogether.

During times of economic uncertainty, many brands are increasing their online presence and taking advantage of technology. Younger generations can relate to brands through social media marketing and draw in new customers through their clever, innovative approaches. Brands also target mass audiences due to the international reach, thus further allowing brands to gain more loyal customers. Moreover, a brand can remain competitive by being adaptable and open to change. For example, some brands thrived during lockdown due to their approach online however, failed to survive and maintain this success once normality returned. Adaptability is key in an industry that is constantly evolving and brands remain competitive in doing so.

References:

The State of Fashion 2023: Holding onto growth as global clouds gather (2023) McKinsey & Company. Available at: https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/retail/our-insights/state-of-fashion (Accessed 21/10/2023)

The pillar ‘People’ is integral to the fashion industry as this not only includes the people behind the production, marketing, and distribution but also the consumers. The consumers give brands purpose and are the driving force of the industry. Now, more so than ever, consumers align their beliefs with brands that they can relate to and identify themselves with. This is mainly seen with Gen Z, a generation that differs from others as Gen Z are the first to grow up as digital natives – constantly around technology and the internet. (Moran 2022). In a period where technology is so prevalent, brands are evolving to suit the needs of consumers.

First and foremost, Gen Z have transformed the fashion industry and as a generation, they are determined to challenge stereotypes and cultural norms. As consumers, Gen Z are concerned with how brands represent social groups and celebrate multiculturalism. Consequently, brands have begun to take measures to change to fulfil the desires of consumers. Moreover, Gen Z consumers have strong beliefs regarding sustainability, and one could argue the youth are more aware of the impacts of fast fashion as they have the internet at their hands. However, with social media becoming so significant, especially within the fashion industry, this makes it hard for Gen Z to prioritise their values and stay ethical. Brands understand that social media marketing is the gateway to larger profits and reaching mass audiences. Social media marketing directly affects Gen Z as many feel pressured to buy into rapid trends which clashes with their values of sustainability. In the USA, 40 percent of Gen Zers admit to being influenced online (McKinsey & Company 2023). One could suggest that Gen Z aim for a more environmentally friendly world yet are easily manipulated and convinced to buy into unethical brands, ultimately highlighting the power of marketing.

For a fashion brand to succeed, people skills are necessary. Teamwork and communication skills are key as the collaboration of ideas enables the production of high-quality work. Further, listening skills gives society a wider perspective which breaks barriers through different cultures and social norms. It also allows brands to understand what could be done to improve and gives them a chance to adapt into what their consumers want and expect, thus increasing profits.

Reference List:

Francis, T. and Hoefel, F. (2018). ‘True Gen’: Generation Z and its implications for companies. Available at:
https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/consumer-packaged-goods/our-insights/true-gen-generation-z-and-its-implications-for-companies (Accessed 13/10/2023)

What is Gen Z? (2023) McKinsey & Company. Available at: https://www.mckinsey.com/featured-insights/mckinsey-explainers/what-is-gen-z (Accessed 11/10/2023)

Moran, G. (2022) Drapers, Gen Z and Millennials 2022. Available at:
https://www.drapersonline.com/guides/gen-z-and-millennials-2022 (Accessed 13/10/2023)

The fashion industry is a major contributor to world pollution and climate change. ‘Planet’ is one of the key pillars of the fashion industry and the world is dealing with irreversible issues due to our poor choices. Our planet is suffering as a result of the lack of awareness, care and accountability. Destroying our planet stems from the very beginning of a garment’s life to the very end whereby consumers dispose their garments and circularity is not endorsed.

Circular economy (CE) ensures that nothing goes to waste by maintaining, upcycling, refurbishing, and reusing. According to the report Well Dressed? The Present and Future Sustainability of Clothing and Textiles in the United Kingdom (University of Cambridge Institute for Manufacturing, 2006), approximately 2.35 million tonnes of textile waste are generated in the UK over a year. Of this, 74 per cent is sent to landfill, while 26 per cent is shared equally between material recovery and incineration (Gwilt, 2014). This simply highlights the harm the planet endures due to society’s actions and emphasises that there is no end resolution without considering CE. The implementation of CE would consequently decrease carbon emissions, deforestation, water wastage and improve the lives of workers. Further, CE fulfils many of the 17 Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) and there is a vision for circularity in fashion. While some brands greenwash and retailers have frequently adopted a tokenistic approach to sustainability, according to Alison, other brands are increasingly rethinking their methods as CE is necessary for a more sustainable future.

Bibliography:

Gwilt, A. (2014) A practical guide to sustainable fashion. London: Fairchild Books. Basics fashion design.

Djerf Avenue

Recently, I have been interested in the Swedish brand, Djerf Avenue. The brand has a very specific and Scandinavian-style image which immediately drew Gen Z audiences, like me, in. With the brand being fairly new and founded in 2019, the most important reason as to why I love this brand is that they have a diverse approach and truly express the brands values of equality through representations of race, sexuality and disability. I strongly believe that Djerf Avenue subverts norms within the fashion industry by enforcing inclusivity which is clearly shown through their social media posts, website, and their recent fashion show whereby Matilda Djerf has upcycled already existing items and previous stock, further emphasising their views on sustainability. Matilda Djerf focuses on encouraging female power through her clothing and creates basic yet timeless pieces which reinforces the ethical side of the brand as they challenge high street brands and their quick trends as well as consider the consequences of fast fashion.

Although Djerf Avenue is not prestigious nor has a rich history such as Chanel or Prada, it continues to grow and cleverly uses online marketing and social media status to boost the brand and garner mass audiences. I admire how the brand is beginning to gain recognition and the gradual transition into creating a more interactive experience for customers by creating pop up shops, thus allowing loyal customers to physically support the brand.