Gresica Rai

About Gresica Rai

Posts by Gresica Rai:

66668272-1D53-49E7-AEBF-BFF3591ABFF7

Purpose

⋅

The fashion industry is composed of 4 prominent pillars: People, Planet, Profit and Purpose. Within this blog, it will be focused on the Purpose pillar and its importance. What’s the point of having purpose in a brand? Aren’t brands sole mission to generate as much profit as they can? “Profit is not a purpose or goal that brands can achieve, it is a result of their work” (Volkinburg, 2023). Brands are established based on principals and aims of the founder, lacking a purpose would mean that there is no foundation to begin and no goals to be achieved. Purpose allows brands to navigate through a journey of their own and reach a destination as a brand whilst also contributing to their brand identity (Volkinburg, 2023). 

A brand philosophy makes the consumers believe that brand view fashion as art and creativity rather than commerce, since they have values and visions in mind, their agenda demonstrates them as more than just profit driven. Companies with only revenue in mind without any goals can give the impression that they lack any empathy to the societal and environmental issues that they contribute towards; making consumers perceive them as malicious and corrupt. During the last few decades, there has been a rise in social responsibility and awareness among consumers (Hethorn and Ulasewicz, 2015). Brands that are not purpose driven may not appeal to consumers anymore, it was reported that 71% of millennials said, “they prefer brands that drive social and environmental change” (Shadpour, 2023). Additionally for business’, this results in brands shifting towards a more sustainable route to reengage their consumers (Hethorn and Ulasewicz, 2015).

The way in which brands have communicated their purpose to Gen Z is the actions that they execute whether that’s the form of a collaboration or donating to a cause. Globally recognised singer, Billie Eilish, had collaborated with Nike to create Air Force 1 shoes in her style using leftover textiles to prevent waste and in a sustainable manner (Nike, 2022). Evidently, demonstrating how Nike is attempting to become more ethical and relevant since Nike would attract Eilish fans. Although some gen z would be content and praise Nike for this, others would investigate deeper and even find out that Nike was sued for greenwashing and marketing products as “green” when more than half were not ethically sourced or produced; resulting in a lawsuit (Ruvo, 2023). The real issue was the false marketisation of Nike’s products since generation Z prefer truthful transparent brands, which Nike has disproven to be. Brands would learn from Nikes mistakes and witness the outrage from generation Z then successfully develop from it.

References:

Firebrand (2019) How to uncover your brand purpose, Firebrand.

Hethorn, J. and Ulasewicz, C. (2015). Sustainable fashion : what’s next? : a conversation about issues, practices and possibilities. New York: Bloomsbury, Fairchild Books, An Imprint Of Bloomsbury Publishing Inc. (Print)

Nike (2022) Nike x Billie Eilish AF1 Low. Available at: https://about.nike.com/en/newsroom/releases/nike-x-billie-eilish-af1-low (Accessed: 24 October 2023).

Ruvo, C. (2023) ‘Greenwashing’ lawsuit against nike claims recycled polyester apparel isn’t sustainable, asicentral. Available at: https://members.asicentral.com/news/newsletters/promogram/july-2023/greenwashing-lawsuit-against-nike-claims-recycled-polyester-apparel-isn-t-sustainable/ (Accessed: 24 October 2023).

Shadpour, D. (2023) Council post: the importance of building brands with purpose, Forbes. Available at: https://www.forbes.com/sites/forbesagencycouncil/2018/10/23/the-importance-of-building-brands-with-purpose/ (Accessed: 25 October 2023).

Volkinburg, N.V. (2023) ‘Intro to… Purpose’. London College of Fashion.

Liked Liked
No Comments
image0-3

Profit

⋅

What determines the success of a business? For the majority, the answer is obviously how much revenue a company generates. In our current society, there has been placed an extreme importance on money and its value. For this blog, profit will be the main subject that will be discussed in relation to the fashion industry. 

1.53 trillion US dollars. That is how much the fashion industry was calculated to have earnt in 2022 whereby the revenue proceeds to gradually increase every year (Smith, 2023b). Although the year before, the revenue had unexpectedly dropped; possibly due to the pandemic which confined people to stay at home and clothing no longer seemed necessary. Unfortunately, the market of the fast fashion has demonstrated a yearly growth and is predicted to steadily increase, however the sustainable fashion market has also increased quite drastically since the global pandemic (Smith, 2023c).

For brands to reign control of their sector in the industry, their primary focus must be on consumers, followed by digitalisation and ethics. These are the elements that Glossier failed to succeed in which ultimately resulted in their downfall (Meltzer, 2023). If brands do not listen to the wants and needs of the consumers then they will no longer appeal to them (). Equally, researching the values of consumers is necessary because nowadays consumers want brands to pioneer sustainability. Technological advancements have consumed this generation, meaning that brands must effectively achieve a social media presence and a digital market. The revenue for the digital market had increased during the pandemic and it can be argued to be more important than the physical stores (Gelder, 2023). Companies that have a philosophy and dedicate themselves to following it, rather than merely displaying it, will interest consumers. It was reported that nearly 50% of the gen Z population said they avoid purchasing from brands that do align their values proving how seriously this generation consider brand ethics. (Moran, 2022).

 (Mitterfellner, 2023)

The role of creative director has substantially more responsibilities than other jobs such as a fashion designer (Mitterfellner, 2023). Essentially, creative directors must be creative and original, whilst managing and marketing the brand. For this position, they must have a deep insight into the brand as well as knowledge about today’s society’s aesthetic whilst keeping the brand true to their identity. Karl Lagerfeld was the creative director at Chanel which he maintained that position since 1985; he successfully transformed Chanel into a powerhouse in the luxury fashion industry. Notably, he invented the “CC” logo which would be forever known globally as the Chanel logo and his collections were recognised as some of Chanel’s most iconic looks (Borrelli-Persson, 2020). Thus, demonstrating how much creative directors can alter a brand.

References:

Borrelli-Persson, L. (2020) How Karl Lagerfeld reinvented Chanel-and the role of the creative director on today’s ‘in vogue: The 1990s’ episode, Vogue. Available at: https://www.vogue.com/article/in-vogue-the-1990s-podcast-episode-4-karl-lagerfeld-the-creative-director (Accessed: 22 October 2023).

Gelder, K. van (2023) Topic: E-commerce worldwide, Statista. Available at: https://www.statista.com/topics/871/online-shopping/#topicOverview (Accessed: 22 October 2023).

Meltzer, M. (2023) Where glossier went wrong, Financial Times. Available at: https://www.ft.com/content/5145f471-e5a6-412d-ae93-6688c24431a2 (Accessed: 22 October 2023).

Mitterfellner, O. (2023) p.33

Mitterfellner, O. (2023), Luxury Fashion Brand Management: Unifying fashion with Sustainability. London: Routledge.

Moran, G. (2022) Gen Z and millennials 2022, Drapers (Online) Available at: https://www.drapersonline.com/guides/gen-z-and-millennials-2022 (Accessed: 11 October 2023)

Smith, P (2023a) Revenue of the apparel market worldwide from 2014 to 2027.

Smith, P. (2023b) Topic: Apparel market worldwide, Statista. Available at: https://www.statista.com/topics/5091/apparel-market-worldwide/#topicOverview (Accessed: 22 October 2023).

Smith, P. (2023c) Topic: Sustainable fashion worldwide, Statista. Available at: https://www.statista.com/topics/9543/sustainable-fashion-worldwide/#topicOverview (Accessed: 22 October 2023).

Liked Liked
No Comments
3495739

People

⋅

When trying to change the model of the current fashion industry, what must we start to change? The attitudes of people is where to start manoeuvring change. Although companies can devise sustainable practices and strategies, the sustainable development goals cannot be achieved before the inner development goals. Selfishness, greed and apathy are the 3 catastrophic reasons which cause environmental disasters (2021). 

Generation Z is an important societal group when discussing change because they are reported to be the generation that “mobilize themselves for a variety of causes” and strive to “solve conflicts and improve the world” (Francis & Hoefel, 2018). It was reported that nearly 50% of the gen Z population have said they would avoid purchasing from a brand that does align their values proving how Gen Z are aware of brands unethical history and show concern over causes (Moran, 2022). With exposure to the internet at an early age, gen z is the generation most open minded towards various themes such as identity. Subsequently, they express concern over issues regarding race and ethnicity, as well as gender and femininity (Francis & Hoefel, 2018).

Brands may consider it difficult to appeal to Generation Z since they are confrontational and opinionated, however Gen Z may appreciate brands that are inclusive, unique and genuine. In the current industry, the lack of inclusivity and one-size fits all mentality is not adequate due to the diverse body types which continue to increase in average body type (Francis & Hoefel, 2018). The lack of diversity within the fashion industry has been previously addressed, thus there has been a difference with models and advertisement which reaches all audiences. Unique brands attract gen z as they seek out individuality and Mckinsey reported that Gen Z is willing to pay more for personalised items(Moran, 2022). Marc Jacobs clothing, in the past, has not been able to satisfy the demands of the youth. However, as an attempt to engage with the Gen Z consumers, they have created a subsidiary line called Heaven which has been successful due to the y2k style and unique pieces(Subair, 2022).  Additionally, Gen Z searches for brands that fulfil the actions they have advertised because brands profit off causes and gen z are quick to confront the brands about these issues.

(Aoki, 2020)

For brands to remain successful, they must have some key people skills; these skills include listening, creativity and communication. Listening is a significant skill because brands must listen to consumers’ needs and demands to maintain relevance and popularity. Additionally, creativity links to exploring various platforms to engage a greater audience as well as attempting different styles beyond the norm. Another crucial skill is communication and the way companies communicate to their consumers; being transparent with consumers is the way to avoid misinformation and if misinformation occurs, explaining effectively can solve the problem. Ultimately, it is essential that brands take into consideration consumers as they can either make a company flourish or fail.

Reference list:

Aoki, S. (2020) Models for heaven campaign. 

Francis, T. and Hoefel, F. (2018) True Gen’: Generation Z and its implications for companies, McKinsey&Company (Online) Available at: https://www.mckinsey.com/~/media/McKinsey/Industries/Consumer%20Packaged%20Goods/Our%20Insights/True%20Gen%20Generation%20Z%20and%20its%20implications%20for%20companies/Generation-Z-and-its-implication-for-companies.ashx (Accessed: 11 October 2023). 

Inner Development Goals film (2021). YouTube (Online) Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xsB5ci-rgGg (Accessed: 10 October 2023). 

McKinsey & Company (2023) What is Gen Z? (Online) Available at: https://www.mckinsey.com/featured-insights/mckinsey-explainers/what-is-gen-z (Accessed: 11 October 2023).

Moran, G. (2022) Gen Z and millennials 2022, Drapers (Online) Available at: https://www.drapersonline.com/guides/gen-z-and-millennials-2022 (Accessed: 11 October 2023). 

Subair, E. (2022) How Marc Jacobs’s heaven became a gen-z fashion obsession, British Vogue (Online) Available at: https://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/article/ava-nirui-heaven-interview-2022 (Accessed: 11 October 2023). 

Liked Liked
No Comments
9B2D02A4-6284-4EB0-BCAE-55448A56A9C1

Planet

⋅

How is fashion affecting the planet? Fashion is an industry that manufactures garments for the whole world, whilst polluting the planet simultaneously. The current model for the fashion industry was not designed with sustainable values in consideration due to the micro-seasons occurring every other week. Ultimately, the designs and creations could not retain its value to consumers which has caused millions of garments to end up in landfills every week (Rimarcikova, 2023). As a result of the fashion industry being a major contributor towards the rise in CO2 levels, it has been proposed that the industry must cut down the percentage of CO2 levels by 50% by 2050 to see change before the damage is irreversible (Rimarcikova, 2023). 

Thus, the industry needs to claim responsibility for the actions they have executed. Over the course of the past few years, there has been a rise in corporate social responsibility and a shift in attitude of consumers (Hethorn and Ulasewicz, 2015). However, the sustainable actions could be due to the UN designing an agenda for sustainable development across all sectors of the world, including fashion, which aims to make a positive planetary impact by 2030. Involving the 2030 agenda, there were 17 sustainable development goals(SDGs) which were devised to end poverty, protect the planet and ensure peace for the people (Department for International Development, 2021). One of the 17 SDGs is responsible consumption and production, meaning consumers should purchase more thoughtfully and the manufacturing of products should become more ethical. 

Filippa K which is a high quality Swedish fashion brand that produces timeless clothing which aims to eliminate all toxic chemicals throughout the production and prolong the life-cycle of their products (Hvass, 2015). The timelessness style ensures that they meet the needs of the consumers rather than the fast-ending trends; building a “smart” wardrobe instead of throwing away the clothing after a single wear. In 2008, the brand opened a second-hand store which involved their customers returning their clothing and earning 50% of the proceeds if the item was sold; supporting their reuse principle and the UN’s objective. 

Part of the change moving forward within the fashion industry in terms of sustainability is also removing the stigma surrounding “used” clothing (Fletcher and Grose, 2012). Becoming a circular economy would become essential since its model is to recycle and reuse as well as producing and manufacturing garments with consideration towards the impact on the earth. This concept has been widely accepted in western society, however it has been disregarded by other countries and societies that are not open-minded. The argument against sustainable fashion is the price, speed and accessibility, although ultimately fast fashion becomes a zero-sum game (Hethorn and Ulasewicz, 2015). For one’s brief moment of happiness costs the sacrifice of someone else. Would you be willing to choose your happiness at the expense of another human?

References:

Department for International Development (2021) Implementing the sustainable development goals, GOV.UK. Available at: https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/implementing-the-sustainable-development-goals/implementing-the-sustainable-development-goals–2#contents [Accessed: 06 October 2023]

Fletcher, K. and Grose, L. (2012) Fashion & Sustainability Design for Change, Laurence King Publishing. (Print)

Hethorn, J. and Ulasewicz, C. (2015). Sustainable fashion : what’s next? : a conversation about issues, practices and possibilities. New York: Bloomsbury, Fairchild Books, An Imprint Of Bloomsbury Publishing Inc. (Print)

Hvass, KK (2015), ‘Business Model Innovation through Second Hand Retailing: A Fashion Industry Case’, Journal of Corporate Citizenship, no. 57, pp. 11-32. [Accessed 4 October 2023]

Rimarcikova, K (2023) ‘Planet Earth & Fashion’ (Lecture)

Liked Liked
No Comments
2130E180-BA18-45F8-A88C-9BBB96784876

AVAVAV

⋅

Founded in 2017, AVAVAV is a fashion brand based in Florence, Italy that aims to decrease the fashion waste problem in the fashion industry. The Italian brand, AVAVAV, that built itself on sustainability, seen during multiple Milan Fashion Weeks, has left an impression on the fashion industry. The brand has conveyed sustainable messages and demonstrates their stance on fashion and ethics through the fashion shows, rather than “claiming” it on their website. One of their latest shows in Milan has the clothes ripping off the models’ bodies. At the beginning of the show when the first item broke, it seemed surprising as luxury brands are known for their high quality products and appeared as “careless” by the brand. However as the show continued, it became increasingly obvious that the simple “mistake” was intentional and the products broke more drastically each time. Finally, the show ended with even the wall collapsing. Personally, this show has stood out since it gave the impression that the brand was criticising fast fashion and that itself communicated the values of the brand. “Unconventional” was the term that the brand AVAVAV had been labelled as by several articles. Typically within a fashion show, it is simply to present a new collection by a brand therefore the crowd has become accustomed to the simplicity. Nevertheless, AVAVAV continues to revolutionise that fashion beyond “just clothes”.

Liked Liked
No Comments