Jingxian Li

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PURPOSE

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Purpose

This week’s discussion is on the last pillar of the module, “Purpose”. Fashion’s purpose for itself is more of a self-expression, declaring to the world who she/he is and what she/he believes in by expressing her/his personality, emotions and preferences. Fashion is always changing and evolving. What is in fashion today may be out of fashion tomorrow, but some styles are timeless and will always come back into fashion, the fashion cycle.

Figure 1. Rihanna in an Esso trucker hat(Allaire-VOGUE, 2021) Figure 2. Bella Hadid, this month, in an Ed Hardy tee(Allaire-VOGUE, 2021) Figure 3. Blumarine’s fall 2021 mini skirt and blingy belt(Blumarine, 2021)

Important Brand Philosophy

The brand philosophy is the core of the brand, defining its values, beliefs and purpose, shaping its image and guiding its actions. A strong brand philosophy resonates with consumers who are aligned with the brand’s values, thereby increasing brand loyalty and customer engagement and influencing purchasing decisions. Brand philosophy plays an important role in Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) and sustainability efforts as it guides a brand’s commitment to time and environmental stewardship, appealing to younger generations of consumers such as Generation Z, who value authenticity and are quick to expose any inconsistencies. For example, designer label Stella McCartney has embedded a concept on its website: respect, trust, and the need for the fashion industry to practice reflection every day of its work. In short, brand philosophy is critical to building brand image, engaging consumers, influencing purchasing decisions, and guiding CSR efforts.（Londrigan and Jenkins, 2018; The McKinsey Podcast, 2020)

Figure 4. Stella McCartney on one of her retail shops Stella McCartney developed her business by focusing on caring and social responsibility. She prides herself on living the life that she espouses through her designs and is a role model for future fashion designers(Gwilt, 20200.

Communicate with Gen Z

Brands communicate their purpose to Gen Z through a variety of channels, including social media platforms such as Instagram, TikTok and YouTube, where brands can showcase their goals and values through visually appealing and relevant content, and can utilize Netflix marketing to effectively communicate them to their followers. Brands create a sense of community and authenticity through interactive experiences such as flash mobs, events and collaborations. They align their values with Gen Z’s (social responsibility, ethics, sustainability, etc.) while ensuring transparency and authenticity in their targeting programs to resonate with this generation（Gwilt, 2020; Mitterfellner, 2023)

Figure 5. Social Networking Sites(C180 Agency, No date)

Reference List

Gwilt, A. (2020) Use, University of the Arts London weblogin. Available at: https://www-bloomsburyfashioncentral-com.arts.idm.oclc.org/encyclopedia-chapter?docid=b-9781350067059&tocid=b-9781350067059-chapter6&pdfid=9781350067059.ch-006.pdf (Accessed: 25 October 2023). 

Londrigan, M.P. and Jenkins, J.M.J. (2018) Corporate Social Responsibility and Sustainability, University of the Arts London weblogin. Available at: https://www-bloomsburyfashioncentral-com.arts.idm.oclc.org/encyclopedia-chapter?docid=b-9781501317798&tocid=b-9781501317798-chapter3&pdfid=9781501317798.ch-003.pdf (Accessed: 25 October 2023). 

Mitterfellner, O. (2023) Luxury Brand Qualities, Brand Construct and Brand Touchpoints, ProQuest Ebook Central. Available at: https://ebookcentral.proquest.com/lib/ual/reader.action?docID=7260416&ppg=77 (Accessed: 25 October 2023). 

The McKinsey Podcast (2020) Meet Generation Z: Shaping the future of Shopping, McKinsey & Company. Available at: https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/consumer-packaged-goods/our-insights/meet-generation-z-shaping-the-future-of-shopping (Accessed: 25 October 2023). 

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PROFIT

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Profit & Fashion

As a quadrillion-dollar industry, fashion profits are critical to enable companies to sustain operations, invest in new collections, expand their business and remain competitive. Fashion industry profit is a measure of the financial success and viability of fashion-related businesses, including apparel brands, retailers, designers, manufactures and related entities. In addition to traditional fashion brands and retailers, e-commerce platforms, fashion designers, influencers, and even individual sellers on platforms such as Etsy or Instagram can also profit from fashion-related activities.

Before the Covid-19 pandemic, the fashion industry’s global revenues were estimated to be between $1,7 trillion and $2.5 trillion, according to a McKinsey study. And during the Covid-19 pandemic, the fashion and apparel industry entered the cold winter with a 20% drop in revenues for the 2019-2020 fiscal year. After the lifting of embargo restrictions in many parts of the world, consumers began to spend with a vengeance and the fashion industry subsequently warmed up. The entire fashion industry is expected to be worth more than $2.5 trillion annually after 2021, according to the latest data analysed . (Fashion United, 2022; McKinsey&Company, 2021)

YSL

The luxury goods sector is expected to outperform the rest of the industry, driven by strength in China(9-14%) and the United States(5-10%), with growth 5-10% expected in 2023(McKinsey&Company, 2022). Prior to this there have certain brands that have experienced declines but have successfully implemented revitalization measures to ensure the continuation of the brand. YSL is a prime example of this, which faced challenges such as declining sales and shop closures following the death of Yves Saint Laurent in 2008. YSL’s problems were attributed to a lack of fashion authority and brand clarity. It was only after the brand changed its name to “Saint Laurent” and adopted a ”rock’n’ roll” style, targeting a younger, more rebellious consumer base, that it regained its position in the luxury market(Mitterfellner, 2023)

Brand

In an uncertain global economy, brands need to be able to respond quickly to changing market conditions and consumer demands in order to remain competitive, and to make timely and targeted strategies, such as partnering with other brands or artists to help them leverage each other’s strengths and resources in a challenging economic environment( Harley, 2015; Mitterfellner 2019) For example, strategic partnerships with other brands or artists can help brands leverage each other’s strengths and resources to navigate the challenging economic environment, as seen in the popularity and promotion of the Louis Vuitton and Nike co-branded “Air Force 1”.

Creative Directors play a key role in bridging the gap between creativity and commerce in various industries such as fashion, advertising, and design. The Creative Director strives to maintain the artistic integrity and creative vision of the brand while ensuring that it aligns with the company’s business goals and objectives, and researches and analyzes to understand the preferences, needs and desires of the target audience. Blending creativity with market needs in order to resonate with the consumer base（ Peterson, 2015). Ultimately, the Creative Director serves as a bridge between the artistic or creative aspects of a project and the financial and strategic goals of the organization.

Reference List

Fashion United (no date) Global Fashion Industry Statistics, FashionUnited. Available at: https://fashionunited.com/global-fashion-industry-statistics (Accessed: 21 October 2023). 

Hawley, J. (2015) Economic Impact of Textile and Clothing Recycling, University of the Arts London weblogin. Available at: https://www-bloomsburyfashioncentral-com.arts.idm.oclc.org/encyclopedia-chapter?docid=b-9781501312250&tocid=b-9781501312250-chapter9&pdfid=9781501312250.ch-009.pdf (Accessed: 21 October 2023). 

Mitterfellner, O. (2019) Social media, blogs, and opinion- leaders: who is leading your opinion? , ProQuest Ebook Central. Available at: https://ebookcentral.proquest.com/lib/ual/reader.action?docID=5981798&ppg=99 (Accessed: 21 October 2023). 

Mitterfellner, O. (2023) Decline and Resuscitation of Luxury Fashion Brands., ProQuest Ebook Central. Available at: https://ebookcentral.proquest.com/lib/ual/reader.action?docID=7260416&ppg=150 (Accessed: 21 October 2023). 

McKinsey&Company (2021）The state of fashion 2022. Available at：https://www.mckinsey.com/~/media/mckinsey/industries/retail/our%20insights/state%20of%20fashion/2022/the-state-of-fashion-2022.pdf （Accessed：22 October 2023）

McKinsey&Company (2022) The state of fashion 2023: Holding onto growth as global clouds gather, McKinsey & Company. Available at: https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/retail/our-insights/state-of-fashion#/ (Accessed: 22 October 2023). 

Peterson, D. (2015) Social Media as a Tool for Social Change, University of the Arts London weblogin. Available at: https://www-bloomsburyfashioncentral-com.arts.idm.oclc.org/encyclopedia-chapter?docid=b-9781501312250&tocid=b-9781501312250-chapter4&pdfid=9781501312250.ch-004.pdf (Accessed: 22 October 2023). 

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PEOPLE

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People

The pillar under discussion this week is “People – Gen Z”. In a colloquial sense Gen Z is kids born between 1996 and 2010. By far, the oldest child is 27 years old and the youngest is in middle school. Due to the rapid development of technology in recent years, GenZ is surrounded by a huge digital world and can be called ’’digital natives’’, they spend a lot of time on the internet, such as shopping, working and making friends. They are also concerned about global and gender equality issues such as climate change, and many of them report daily on their thoughts about the fate of the planet and sexism. (McKinesy&Company, 2023) Unfortunately, Gen Z is facing a health crisis, with studies finding that more than 40% of them suffer from mental illness, the highest prevalence of mental illness compared to other generations, and the outlook is bleak!(Jennifer Newson, 2021).

Figure 1. Who is Gen Z(Chauhan, 2023)

Gen Z & Consumers & Brand

Gen Z consumers are a unique and influential demographic group with distinct preferences and behaviors that have been shaped by their upbringing in the digital age. Emma Spagnuolo, in an interview on the McKinsey Podcast, mentioned how Gen Z is different from the rest of the generation:’’ And this is a place where millennials and Gen Z diverge. Whereas a millennial is looking more for that kind of showcaser status-‘Look at me wearing this brand item’-a GenZ is looking more for this item that shows that they’re different, they’re unique. And if they find it from a luxury brand, then they’re absolutely willing to pay for it.”(The McKinsey Podcast, 2020) As mentioned in the previous section, Gen Z is concerned with sustainability and the pursuit of uniqueness. In order to appeal to consumers, brands should be ethically sourced in terms of design and production, fair labour practices and environmentally friendly materials. Embracing digitalisation, diversity and tailored services are key elements in preparing for the promotional aspect(Mitterfellner, 2023).

Successful fashion brands often rely on a combination of technical and creative skills, as well as effective people skills. Strong and effective communication skills are vital in the fashion industry. This includes the ability to articulate ideas, give and receive construction feedback and clearly communicate the brand’s vision and values to team members, partners and customers. Adjusting and improving a product or service because of an inability to communicate correctly and effectively can have irreversible consequences.

Figure 2-3. VOGUE – Mia And Romeo Are Pin-Ups For Gen-Z Couple’s Style(Kessler, 2022)

CVS Pharmacy

One prominent example is the ”Beauty Mark” programme launched by CVS Pharmacy, a cosmetics and beauty brand from the U.S. CVS launched the campaign as part of its commitment to promoting more realistic and inclusive beauty standards. The promisd in 2018 that they would not materially alter beauty images created for shops, marketing materials, website, apps or social media(CVSHealth, 2021). In short, the plan would ban the use of software such as Photoshop, and CVS introduced new watermark symbols on unaltered images to indicate that the images were unretouched. “Beauty Mark” enabled diversity in models from a variety of backgrounds, body sizes, ethnicities, ages, and gender identities to represent a broader range of beauty ideals. The brand also worked with media psychologist Dr. Pamela Rutledge on a survey which found that the majority of women, who were inspired by unedited images of models online, became more confident than ever before, proving that the ”Beauty Mark” programme is on the right track(Simeon, 2021).

Figure 4. CVS Beauty Mark – Different watermarks for retouched and unretouched images(CVSHealth, 2021)

Reference List

CVSHealth (2021) CVS Beauty Mark, Leading Health Solutions Company. Available at: https://www.cvshealth.com/news/innovation/cvs-beauty-mark.html# (Accessed: 14 October 2023).

Jennifer Newson Ph.D. (2021) Is gen Z in crisis?, Psychology Today. Available at: https://www.psychologytoday.com/gb/blog/measuremental/202104/is-gen-z-in-crisis (Accessed: 12 October 2023).

Kessler, A. (2022) Mia and Romeo are pin-ups for gen-z couple’s style, British Vogue. Available at: https://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/gallery/mia-regan-and-romeo-beckham-couple-style (Accessed: 14 October 2023). 

McKinsey & Company (2023) What is gen Z?, McKinsey & Company. Available at: https://www.mckinsey.com/featured-insights/mckinsey-explainers/what-is-gen-z (Accessed: 14 October 2023).

Mitterfellner, O (2023) Luxury Fashion Brand Management : Unifying Fashion with Sustainability, ProQuest Ebook Centra. Available at: https://ebookcentral.proquest.com/lib/ual/reader.action?docID=7260416&ppg=240 (Accessed: 14 October 2023).

Simeon, A. (2021) CVS hit a huge transparency milestone in its beauty aisle, CVS Beauty Mark Initiative Reaches Full Compliancy. Available at: https://www.refinery29.com/en-us/2021/05/10484201/cvs-beauty-mark-campaign (Accessed: 14 October 2023).

The McKinsey Podcast (2020) Meet Generation Z: Shaping the future of Shopping, McKinsey & Company. Available at: https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/consumer-packaged-goods/our-insights/meet-generation-z-shaping-the-future-of-shopping (Accessed: 14 October 2023).

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Planet

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Planet

Clothing is an essential part of human life, especially with the development and process of the times and the gradual pursuit of more fashionable, good-looking styles, but with this comes a large amount of output that produces impacts and hazards on the ecosystem and human beings themselves. 171million tons of CO2 were emitted by the fashion industry in 2015(Pulse of Fashion), which is more than the combined energy consumption of the two types of heavy industries, aviation and shipping(UN), and it’s even growing. In the ”use phase” of a garment’s total life cycle, repeated care and maintenance using energy, water and chemical detergents have an even greater impact(Gwilt, 2020). This is why this week’s focus on the pillar ”Planet”.

Circular Economy

The Circular Economy(CE) is distinct from the traditional linear economy, which follows a ‘capture-make-discard’ model, where resources are extracted, products are made, they are used and then discarded as waste, whereas CE adheres to the principles of designing out waste and pollution; keeping products and materials in use; and regenerating natural systems(Kirchherr, J., Reike, D., & Hekkert, M, 2017). There is no doubt that CE has ignited the fashion industry as a whole and has been widely adopted as a driver of sustainability. The Ellen MacArthur Foundation describes CE as a system that builds long-term resilience, creates business and economic opportunities, and provides environmental and social benefits(Gwilt, 2020).

Sustainability&Fashion&SDG

The Bruntland Report had clearly stated that ”Sustainable development that meets the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs.”(WCED, 1987 in Ravage et al, 2015). In the fashion industry, in order to take into account the life cycle of the product, from design and production to use and final disposal, runs the production, consumption and disposal of clothing and accessories in a way that minimizes the negative impact on the environment and society.

SDG is highly relevant to the fashion industry because it addresses the unsustainable consumption and production patterns that are prevalent in the sector. Fast particular, has contributed to excessive resource consumption, pollution, and a throwaway culture. Sustainability in fashion includes ethical manufacturing practices. This encompasses fair wages, safe working conditions, and responsible sourcing of materials. Ethical production aims to improve the well-being of works and reduce the exploitation often associated with the fashion industry.

Reference

Brundtland, G.H. (1987). Report of the World Commission on Environment and Development: Our Common Future. Available at: https://sustainabledevelopment.un.org/content/documents/5987our-common-future.pdf.‌

Gwilt, A. (2020). Rethinking Fashion Design. In A Practical Guide to Sustainable Fashion. Available at: http://dx.doi.org/10.5040/9781350067059.ch-001

Kirchherr, J., Reike, D., & Hekkert, M. (2017). Conceptualizing the circular economy: An analysis of 114 definitions. Available at: https://www.nature.com/articles/531435a

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