Mingchu Jian

About Mingchu Jian

Posts by Mingchu Jian:

Purpose

⋅

The last pillar, purpose, is the base of businesses activities as it will lead the strategy businesses use to achieve their goals. Fashion businesses need to produce sustainably to have positive impact on the society without compromising the future (Londrigan and Jenkins, 2018), and this links to corporate social responsibility (CSR). According to the European Commission (2011), CSR refers to the responsibility of enterprises for their impact on society. To achieve CSR objectives, sustainability needs to be integrated at the corporate level and businesses need to set valid brand philosophy.

Brand philosophy refers to the way a brand doing things to exist and the belief of that method to build stronger connection with the customers (Forbes, 2020). Businesses need to have mission and vision statement to represent a clear brand philosophy, which is to know their achievement so far and future envisagement. Gen Z customers care about businesses’ values, they want to understand the purpose of businesses and if they have positive contribution to the society (McKinsey, 2020). ASOS launched their new ‘Fashion with Integrity’ program in 2021, the program focuses on two pillars, planet and people. Their goals by 2030 are, first, to achieve net zero carbon emissions, second, implement circular system better to extend the life cycle of garments, and third, be transparent and diverse (ASOS, 2022). By setting goals, ASOS conduct detailed strategies to help achieve the goals such as launching their first circular design collection in 2020 and becoming the first brand to include external commentary within the Modern Slavery Statement. ASOS’s CSR approach shows their concern to the environment and stakeholders which emphasis their values of being sustainable. Therefore, brand philosophy is important for businesses as it will lead the future direction to make businesses think about what can be improved by using certain strategy. Having a strong value that shows empathy to the world also helps attract potential customers, especially Gen Z.

The ways of marketing have changed with the emerging of technology, Gen Z is mostly affected as they grow up with the internet and see it as part of their life. Digital campfires heavily connect with Gen Z audiences and bring them different cultural experiences; therefore, marketers have to pay attention to them (Wilson, 2021). One way for brands to communicate with Gen Z customers is to bond emotional connection with them (McKinsey,2020). In July 2023, Nike collaborate with street brand Ambush to have a new collection. The shooting style was succubus chic which Gabbriette Bechtel, the icon of succubus chic was chosen to be the model for this collection (Nike, 2023). By collaborating with young street brand and inviting iconic influencer for shooting, Gen Z customers will be attracted which helps the brand to promote its brand philosophy.

ASOS (2022) Fashion with Interiority: Progress Update, ASOS. Available at: https://asos-12954-s3.s3.eu-west-2.amazonaws.com/files/9316/4974/2308/Fashion_With_Integrity_-_Progress_Update_-_120422.pdf (Accessed: 27 October 2023). 

European Commission (2011) Communication from the Commission to the European … – european parliament. Available at: https://www.europarl.europa.eu/meetdocs/2009_2014/documents/com/com_com(2011)0681_/com_com(2011)0681_en.pdf (Accessed: 25 October 2023). 

Londrigan, M. and Jenkins, J.M. (2018) ‘3 Corporate Social Responsibility and Sustainability’, in Fashion Supply Chain Management. New York, New York: Bloomsbury Academic & Professional, pp. 41–43. 

Nike (2023) The Nike x AMBUSH Collection Amplifies Sport, Style, Self-Expression, About.nike.com. Available at: https://about.nike.com/en/newsroom/releases/the-nike-x-ambush-collection-amplifies-sport-style-self-expression (Accessed: 29 October 2023). 

Silva, P. (2020) Why philosophy has much to do with brand-building (and what that looks like), Forbes. Available at: https://www.forbes.com/sites/piasilva/2020/11/19/why-philosophy-has-much-to-do-with-brand-building-and-what-that-looks-like/?sh=c997cb71f928 (Accessed: 25 October 2023). 

Wilson, S. (2021) Where brands are reaching gen Z, Harvard Business Review. Available at: https://hbr.org/2021/03/where-brands-are-reaching-gen-z (Accessed: 27 October 2023). 

Liked Liked
No Comments

Profit

⋅

According to Statista, revenue in the global fashion market is estimated to be $1.74 trillion (approximately £1.43 trillion) in 2023, with an increase rate of 13.7% compared to that of 2022. The majority demands of garments come from the USA and China, both generating considerably higher revenues than other countries (Statista, 2022a). Fashion can be described as a female consumer dominated market, therefore, the revenue generated from womenswear is much higher than the others. In the UK alone, the revenue for womenswear is almost twice of the revenue for menswear (Statista, 2022b), which is more than the UK menswear and children’s markets combined (Statista, 2022c). 

As mentioned earlier, that Gen Z consumers value sustainability, and are highly influenced by social media. Influencers on social media encourage second-hand or vintage clothes, this will easily influence Gen Z followers according to the ‘Two-step flow of communication’ hypothesis (Mitterfellner, 2019), which lead to the growth of second-hand garment industry. Luxury sector is also an important sector, it is expected to grow between 5 and 10 percent in 2023 (The State of Fashion, 2023). 

Similar to product life cycle, brand also has life cycle, but the difference is that brand life cycle is less restrictive, and the stages are growth, stagnation, decline and brand death (Mitterfellner,2023). Brands need to remain competitive to have longer life span. People were used to digital presentations, online classes, and amplified level of online shopping for clothes that do not know when can wear in public due to the pandemic. Many brands have their online runway show. With an example of Balenciaga, staged its autumn/winter 2021 collection as a virtual reality runway show and released the video game called ‘Afterworld: The Age of Tomorrow’. 

The creative director, Demna Gvasalia, created this game with other artists to build this ‘Afterworld’. It was defined as an ‘allegorical adventure’ anchored to ‘mythological pasts and projected futures’ in which the hero emerges as a master of two worlds (WWD, 2020). This approach successfully attracted the fans of Balenciaga, which they can experience a runway show in a game that requires their engagement as well as help people express an attitude. Gvasalia said the show was about freedom and hope, the theme of Afterworld not only stands for post-pandemic but also an unpolished, exciting, free and spiritual world he wants to live in the future (Vogue, 2020). The creative director has created the game at the right time, the digital era, targeting at the right consumers, the Gen Z, which fills the gap between commerce and creative. This, therefore, shows that adaptability is important for business to remain competitive in uncertain economic times.

Balenciaga’s videogame Afterworld: The Age of Tomorrow

Bibliography:

Madsen, A.C. (2020) 5 things to know about Balenciaga’s virtual reality AW21 Show, British Vogue. Available at: https://www.vogue.co.uk/news/gallery/balenciaga-autumn-winter-2020 (Accessed: 21 October 2023). 

Mitterfellner, O. (2019) ‘ 5 Social media, blogs and opinion-leaders: Who is leading your opinion?’, in Fashion Marketing and Communication: Theory and practice across the fashion industry. Abingdon, Oxon: Routledge, pp. 80–85. 

Mitterfellner, O. (2023) ‘ 6 Decline and Resuscitation of Luxury Fashion Brands’, in Luxury Fashion Brand Management: Unifying fashion with Sustainability. London: Routledge, pp. 132–133. 

Smith, P. (2023a) Revenue of the Global Apparel Market 2014-2027, Statista. Available at: https://www.statista.com/forecasts/821415/value-of-the-global-apparel-market (Accessed: 18 October 2023). 

Smith, P. (2023b) Global: Revenue of men’s apparel by country 2022, Statista. Available at: https://www.statista.com/forecasts/758671/revenue-of-the-men-s-and-boys-apparel-market-worldwide-by-country (Accessed: 18 October 2023). 

Smith, P. (2023c) Global: Revenue of childrens apparel by country 2022, Statista. Available at: https://www.statista.com/forecasts/758638/revenue-of-the-clothing-accessories-and-other-clothes-market-worldwide-by-country (Accessed: 18 October 2023). 

Socha, M. (2023) Balenciaga fall 2021, WWD. Available at: https://wwd.com/runway/fall-ready-to-wear-2021/paris/balenciaga/review/ (Accessed: 20 October 2023). 

Liked Liked
No Comments

People

⋅

The triple bottom line is a sustainability structure that examines a company’s social, environment, and economic impact in terms of People, Planet and Profit (Elkington J, 1994). People is seen to be the most important pillar as people is the one who make changes (London College of Fashion Lecture, 2023). 

Generation Z refers to people who is born between 1996 and 2010 and is currently the second youngest generation (McKinsey, 2023). It is predicted that Gen-Z consumers will exceed Millennials in 2036 (The State of Fashion, 2023), which will become the biggest segment of consumers. Brands need to attract Gen Z consumers by knowing them. Gen Z customers are called ‘digital natives’, they are the first generation to grow up with the internet and having social media as part of their life. 92% of Gen Z customers prefer online shopping (Drapers, 2023). Despite social media, belonging to an inclusive, supportive community is what Gen Z consumers are interested in, which means they have strong values related to racial justice and sustainability (McKinsey, 2023). According to McKinsey &Company’s 2018 study ‘Delivering through Diversity’, companies with most ethically and culturally varied executive teams are 33% more likely to outperform homogeneous competitors with regard to profitability (McKinsey, 2018). 

Fashion businesses should, therefore, aim to make consumers experience diversity and sustainability. An example of a brand working towards this is ‘Di Petsa’, a business led by 95% of female employees founded by Dimitra Petsa, is one of few luxury labels to incorporate maternity wear into its collections, which can be worn during pregnancy and after, by using stretch fabric (Vogue, 2021). The designer’s intention was to change the patriarchal perception in the fashion industry as designers cover women up to show empowerment whereas some women do not want to be covered up. Secondly, to design for all sizes, ages and gender expressions. Di fills the gap in the market in terms of luxury maternity wear and designs garments that are interesting, beautiful, and youthful. Di Petsa carries out made-to-order shopping system for customers, with customized pieced made to fit their body shape, instead of following the traditional sizing.  This approach has made the brand adored by younger customers as the designer said, ‘young people are shopping differently today. They want something that is special and customized for their bodies’. 

In conclusion, businesses with ethics and sympathy will be more successful as they know more about customers with different cultural background as well as providing an equal, inclusive, and diverse environment for employees. IT skill is important as well due to the development of technology, artificial intelligence will be more involved with people’s life.

Bibliography

Amed, I. et al. (2023) The state of fashion 2021 – McKinsey & Company, McKinsey & Company. Available at: https://www.mckinsey.com/~/media/McKinsey/Industries/Retail/Our%20Insights/State%20of%20fashion/2021/The-State-of-Fashion-2021-vF.pdf (Accessed: 09 October 2023). 

Elkington, J. (2017) Enter the triple bottom line, Johnelkington. Available at: https://johnelkington.com/archive/TBL-elkington-chapter.pdf (Accessed: 11 October 2023). 

Hunt, D.V. et al. (2018) Delivering through diversity, McKinsey & Company. Available at: https://www.mckinsey.com/capabilities/people-and-organizational-performance/our-insights/delivering-through-diversity (Accessed: 09 October 2023). 

Maguire, L. (2021) Celebrity favourite di petsa on scaling bespoke fashion, Vogue Business. Available at: https://www.voguebusiness.com/companies/celebrity-favourite-di-petsa-on-scaling-bespoke-fashion (Accessed: 12 October 2023). 

Moran, G. (2023) Gen Z and millennials 2023, Drapers. Available at: https://www.drapersonline.com/guides/gen-z-and-millennials-2023 (Accessed: 11 October 2023). 

Liked Liked
No Comments

Planet

⋅

There are Four criteria for effective design and planet is one of the main elements, which is to make positive impact on the planet (McKinsey, 2022). Fashion industry is the only industry connects from farm, design, production to retail and it is the major contributor to world pollution and climate change. For example, textile production emits 1.2 billion tonnes of Carbon Dioxide annually which speeds up global warming. Cotton is considered by customers as quality fabric, but it is water intensive and to meet the demand of businesses, farmers use chemicals to grow cotton faster than the eco-system. Every year, about £140 million clothes are sent to landfills and £30 billion are new (Wrap.org.uk, 2019). Decomposing clothing into landfill will produce methane, a harmful gas that contributing to global warming. The fashion consumers are also considered as part of fashion industry and play a key role. Consumers bad purchasing habit like frequently buy clothes but rarely wear so they have many new clothes in closet.

There is no sustainability in fashion from the examples above. Sustainability means to meet our own needs of present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs (Mcgill.ca, 2019). More and more customers care about sustainability after they see the dirty secrets of fashion industry. Therefore, fashion industry needs to be more sustainable. To do so, businesses and consumers are encouraged to use the circular economy approach. Circular economy is a system where materials never become waste and nature is regenerated, this means garments are circulated for as long as their maximum value is retained, and then returned safely to the biosphere when they are no longer of use (Ellen Macarthur Foundation, 2019). Circular economy helps reduce textile waste which make progress towards the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals (United Nations, 1992), including SDG 12, ‘Responsible consumption and production’ and SDG 13, ‘Climate Action’. In order to reduce fabric waste, manufacturers should produce less garments and have sustainable strategy of recycling and reusing the unwanted clothing from the consumers. At the same time, consumers should change the buying habit and decrease the amount of new clothes they buy, keep the clothes in a good condition instead of only wear them once. Producing less clothes cuts down carbon emission and saves the resources to dispose the waste clothing which decrease the production of methane as well.

Liked Liked
No Comments

Uma Wang

⋅

Uma Wang is a Chinese designer brand named by its designer, Uma Wang. She graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2003 and started her own label Uma Studio with a small line of knitwear in 2006. In 2009, she changed the brand name to Uma Wang. In 2009, she attended Vogue Talent with the recommendation from Vogue China. It was the time when Chinese design is still very new to the world, but she was one of the two designers who got picked. The first time Uma Wang shows her design in western country is in 2010 at WHITE MILANO. She used a sentence from TAO TE CHING as her inspiration to express the special eastern design. She is also the first Chinese designer who gets into Milan and Paris fashion week. Most of her inspiration of designing is from the nature which she uses sustainable fabric and dying method. Her design for 2023 FW is the first time trying faux fur and she was inspired by the ancient cave paintings in Matera, Italy. I love her because she tells historical story of different countries through her design which really do help me learn a lot.

Liked Liked
No Comments