Saniya Sharma

The final pillar, purpose, responds to the question ‘Why?’ a brand was started and why it exists. The purpose framework consists of 5Ps namely, portfolio strategy and product, people and culture, processes and systems, performance metric, and lastly, positions and engagement (Leape et al, 2020) (Fig. 1.). “The European Commission (2017) defined corporate social responsibility (CSR) in the following way: “Corporate social responsibility (CSR) refers to companies taking responsibility for their impact on society. (Londrigan and Jenkins, 2018, pp 41).” Having a purpose and a good CSR helps a brand build successful relationships with its customers, a strong mission and vision statement, and a booming business. 

“A 2018 survey from DoSomething found that 76% of respondents said they have purchased or would consider purchasing, from a company to show support for the issues the company supports, and 67% had stopped purchasing or would consider doing so if a company stood for something that didn’t align with their values (Curry, 2020).” This shows how important a brand’s mission, vision, and values align with its customers.Mission paves the way for a brand, it defines the immediate goals and objectives of the business. Vision is a brand’s future, what it perceives to achieve; it depends on the brand’s identity, market stance, and branding. Value proposition refers to the brand’s values and behaviours which would further resonate with its target market. For example, when Balenciaga released the campaign photos of children holding a handbag that looked like teddy bears in bondage and another campaign had pictures that included paperwork about child pornography laws (Paton et al, 2022) it took the internet on fuel, the brand was the talk of the town and was cancelled (Fig. 2.). This shows how important a brand’s value, and its marketing is. 

 “Chanel’s highly limited digital retail footprint excludes it from The Lyst Index, but with The Met Gala honouring the late Karl Lagerfeld, an extravagant Cruise show in Los Angeles, and a viral $4,500 embroidered F1 t-shirt, this was a powerful quarter for the brand (Lyst Index, 2023).” To effectively communicate with Gen Z, brands need to be transparent about their values and open and take accountability for their actions, collaborate with influencers, and celebrity endorsements, and have strong digital marketing communication platforms like Instagram and TikTok. For example, Billie Eilish was the perfect celebrity to collab with Nike for the “Nike x Billie Eilish AF1 Low uses leftover material waste from the artist’s prior collaborative AF1 High to create a new aesthetic for an iconic silhouette (Nike, 2022)” as Eilish promotes sustainability and environmentalism which creates a sense of authenticity which further advertises the product to the customer base and increases sales (Fig. 3.). 

Reference List:

Curry, L. (2020). How brands can follow through on the values they’re selling. Available at: https://hbr.org/2020/08/how-brands-can-follow-through-on-the-values-theyre-selling (Accessed: 28 October 2023). 

Leape, S. Zou, J. Loadwick, O. Nuttal, R. Stone, M. Simpson, B. (2020). More than the mission statement: How the 5Ps embed purpose to deliver value. Available at: https://www.mckinsey.com/capabilities/strategy-and-corporate-finance/our-insights/more-than-a-mission-statement-how-the-5ps-embed-purpose-to-deliver-value#/ (Accessed: 28 October 2023).

Londrigan, M.P. Jenkins, J.M. (2018). Fashion Supply Chain Management. Available at: https://www-bloomsburyfashioncentral-com.arts.idm.oclc.org/encyclopedia-chapter?docid=b-9781501317798&tocid=b-9781501317798-chapter3&pdfid=9781501317798.ch-003.pdf (Accessed: 28 October 2023). 

Lyst Index. (2023). Fashion’s Hottest Brands and Products Q2 2023. Available at: https://www.lyst.com/data/the-lyst-index/q223/ (Accessed: 29 October 2023).

Nike. (2022). Nike x Billie Eilish AF1 Low. Available at: https://about.nike.com/en/newsroom/releases/nike-x-billie-eilish-af1-low (Accessed: 29 October 2023). 

Paton, E. Friedman, V. Testa, J. (2022). When High Fashion and QAnon Collide. Available at: https://www.nytimes.com/2022/11/28/style/balenciaga-campaign-controversy.html (Accessed: 28 October 2023).  

Reference for Figures:

Leape, S. Zou, J. Loadwick, O. Nuttal, R. Stone, M. Simpson, B. (2020). More than the mission statement: How the 5Ps embed purpose to deliver value. Available at: https://www.mckinsey.com/capabilities/strategy-and-corporate-finance/our-insights/more-than-a-mission-statement-how-the-5ps-embed-purpose-to-deliver-value#/ (Accessed: 28 October 2023).

Moribund, D. (2022). Fashion label Balenciaga pulls ads featuring children with bondage teddy. Available at: https://www.euronews.com/culture/2022/11/23/fashion-label-balenciaga-pulls-ads-featuring-children-with-bondage-teddy (Accessed: 29 October 2023).

Nike. (2022). Nike x Billie Eilish AF1 Low. Available at: https://about.nike.com/en/newsroom/releases/nike-x-billie-eilish-af1-low (Accessed: 29 October 2023). 

Each and every business owner starts out with the expectation of making profit. It can also be considered as a measure of accomplishment for a business. According to Stobierski (2020), profit is typically defined as the balance that remains when all business’ operating expenses are subtracted from its revenues. It’s what’s left when the books are balanced, and expenses are subtracted from proceeds (Stobierki, 2020).

Every type of clothing is included in the garment sector, from sporting to business wear, from affordable clothes to high-end statement items. High inflation in 2022 presented new challenges for the global garment sector after the market recovered in 2021 from the consequences of the coronavirus (COVID-19) epidemic. The fashion industry started with a boom of £60.62 billion in 2019 and dropped down to £54.97 billion in 2020 when the lockdown hit (Statista, 2023). Subsequently, the revenue of the apparel market in the UK increased to £62.87 billion in 2021, dropping down to £60.41 billion in 2022; with a massive increase in 2023 of £70.04 billion (Statista, 2023). The value of the fast fashion market worldwide was estimated to be worth over 106 billion U.S. dollars in 2022. This was forecast to rise considerably in the following years. In 2027, the global market value of fast fashion was forecast to reach a value of approximately 185 billion U.S. dollars (Smith, 2023). 

As mentioned in the Statista (2023) report, fashion purchases by Gen Z in the UK in 2023 by the following categories are, Clothing- 72%, Shoes- 58%, Accessories (bags, belts, jewellery)- 41%, Headwear- 22%. Since the pandemic in 2020, e-commerce has been a budding sector in the fashion industry; e-commerce is still preferred over in-person shopping as it is easier and more accessible, moreover anything ordered gets delivered directly to the doorstep The fashion industry is under constant change, and to keep up, brands try implementing a variety of new marketing strategies. Some viable methods as stated by Clausen (2020) are, being adaptable and receptive to new platforms, tools, and technology; providing certainty when people are overwhelmed by ambiguity and taking advantage of the time to concentrate on strategy, create content, and examine client behaviour.

Lastly, a brand’s main target is usually profit, so the question arises, how do creative directors bridge the gap between creativity and commerce? A creative director’s collection must generate revenue, which is often a point of success measurement when CEOs and shareholders look at annual reports (Mitterfillner, 2023). Creative directors understand the brand values, target consumers, and brand aesthetic and reflect that onto the products. This reinterpretation and consistency form the brand’s heritage and sustain it from decade to decade. For example, Karl Lagerfeld, who joined Fendi as a creative director in 1965 for 54 years, then joined Chanel as the creative director from 1983 until 2019 and founded his own label in 1984 (Mitterfellner, 2023) but still managed to maintain the aesthetics of the respective brands and delivered products without compromising the brand value, integrity, and aesthetic.

Reference List:

Clausen, E. (2023) Marketing Rules To Follow During Uncertain Economic Times. Available at: https://www.forbes.com/sites/forbesagencycouncil/2020/04/03/marketing-rules-to-follow-during-uncertain-economic-times/ (Accessed: 21 October 2023).

Mitterfellner, O. (2023) Luxury Fashion Brand Management and sustainability: Unifying fashion with sustainability. New York: Routledge. (Accessed: 21 October 2023).

Smith, P. (2023) Fast fashion market value forecast worldwide from 2022-2027. Available at: https://www-statista-com.arts.idm.oclc.org/statistics/1008241/fast-fashion-market-value-forecast-worldwide/ (Accessed: 21 October 2023).

Statista. (2023) Generation Z fashion market in the United Kingdom. Available at: https://www-statista-com.arts.idm.oclc.org/study/139027/generation-z-fashion-market-in-the-united-kingdom/ (Accessed: 21 October 2023).

Stobierski, T. (2020) Cash Flow vs. Profit: What’s the difference? Available at: https://online.hbs.edu/blog/post/cash-flow-vs-profit (Accessed: 20 October 2023). 

Reference for Figures:

Fig 1:

(no name) (no date). Revision notes. Available at: https://www.dineshbakshi.com/igcse-business-studies/financial-information-and-decision/revision-notes/1360-profit-and-its-importance (Accessed: 21 October 2023).

Fig 2:

Statista. (2023) Generation Z fashion market in the United Kingdom. Available at: https://www-statista-com.arts.idm.oclc.org/study/139027/generation-z-fashion-market-in-the-united-kingdom/ (Accessed: 21 October 2023).

Fig 3:

Kambouris, D. (2019). Karl Lagerfeld, the designer who dressed to survive. Available at: https://www.newyorker.com/culture/postscript/karl-lagerfeld-the-designer-who-dressed-to-survive (Accessed: 21 October 2023).

People, or the main demographic of a fashion firm, play an essential role in developing marketing strategies and selling their products and services. According to Lee (2022), “In the US, Gen-Z is particularly shaping the culture and moving the economy with a purchasing power of about $360 billion.”  Although reading the aforementioned statement provides insight into how dominant Gen Z is, the question of who Gen Z is arises. Why are they crucial, and how has Gen Z affected the fashion industry? Gen Z or Generation Z comprises people born between the years 1996 and 2010; also called the “digital natives” (the first generation to grow up with the internet as a part of daily life) and are more interested in belonging to an inclusive, supportive community. (McKinsey & Company, 2023)

Gen Z is known to have strong values like racial justice, sustainability, and individual expression. (McKinsey & Company, 2023, Francis and Hoefel, 2018) “Gen Z also make decisions and relate to institutions in a highly analytical and pragmatic way which is why Gen Z is “True Gen.”” (Francis and Hoefel, 2018) Having such strong ideals, influences the purchasing experience and allows for pragmatic thinking before making a purchase. As a result, marketing products to Gen Z must take a different approach, including digital marketing on platforms such as Instagram and TikTok, building a positive brand image, collaborating with influencers, providing authenticity, and more. Furthermore, Sabrina Bahsoon, aka, “tube girl” from TikTok is not only sitting front row at Fashion Week but also walking the ramp. (Chitrakorn, 2023) “After walking Mac Cosmetics’ “The Face Show” event during London Fashion Week, she has already been spotted at Balmain and Courreges, and walked the runway for Christian Cowan.” (Chitrakorn, 2023) This increased the brand’s following among Gen Z. 

To entice Gen Z consumers to their brand, several companies have begun including diversity and inclusivity. For example, “Fenty launched in 2017 with “foundation for all” — and though it was not the first company to offer makeup in an extensive array of skin tones, it quickly became the most buzz-worthy.” (Wingard, 2019) Similarly, Uniqlo gained a lot of Gen Z interest after Phillimore posted her ode to Uniqlo in April 2022, countless others have created “what’s in my bag” TikToks featuring the cross-body bag, and #uniqlobag has 70 million views on the platform. (Miller, 2023) 

The Inner Developmental Goals or IDGs provide an essential framework of transformative skills for sustainable development on how to develop necessary skills. (Inner Developmental Goals, n.d.) This framework consists of five dimensions, being, thinking, relating, collaborating, and acting. (Inner Developmental Goals, n.d.) As a result, effective communication, leadership, flexibility and agility, and self-awareness are some key people skills needed for a fashion brand to be successful. 

Reference List: 

Chitrakorn, K. (2023). Tube Girl at Balmain? Internet personalities are invading fashion week. Available at: https://www.voguebusiness.com/fashion/tube-girl-at-balmain-internet-personalities-are-invading-fashion-week(Accessed: 14 October 2023). 

Francis, T and Hoefel, F. (2018). “True Gen”: Generation Z and its implications for companies. Available at: https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/consumer-packaged-goods/our-insights/true-gen-generation-z-and-its-implications-for-companies (Accessed: 13 October 2023). 

Inner Developmental Goals. (n.d.). Inner Developmental Goals: The Initiative. Available at: https://www.innerdevelopmentgoals.org (Accessed: 14 October 2023).

Lee, D. (2022). Gen Z and Fashion in the Age of Realism. Available at: https://www.businessoffashion.com/reports/retail/gen-z-fashion-in-the-age-of-realism-bof-insights-social-media-report/ (Accessed: 13 October 2023).

McKinsey & Company. (2023). What is Gen Z? Available at: https://www.mckinsey.com/featured-insights/mckinsey-explainers/what-is-gen-z (Accessed: 13 October 2023).

Miller, D. (2023). How Uniqlo finally won over Gen Z. Available at: https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/retail/uniqlo-gen-z-retail-expansion/ (Accessed: 14 October 2023).

Wingard, J. (2019) Rihanna’s ‘Fenty Beauty’: A Leadership Case for Customer Inclusivity. Available at: https://www.forbes.com/sites/jasonwingard/2019/08/02/rihannas-fenty-beauty–a-leadership-case-for-customer-inclusivity/?sh=19b538303460 (Accessed: 14 October 2023) 

Reference for figures:

Fig 1:

johnstocker. (n.d.). Dancing party group illustration. Available at: https://www.freepik.com/premium-vector/dancing-party-group-illustration_3959570.htm (Accessed: 15 October 2023).

Fig 2:

Ring, E. (2023). Everything the iconic tube girl has been upto, from modelling to becoming a MAC partner. Available at: https://thetab.com/uk/2023/09/18/everything-the-iconic-tube-girl-has-been-up-to-from-modelling-to-becoming-a-mac-partner-329594 (Accessed: 15 October 2023).

Fig 3:

Uniqlo. (no date). Nylon cross body bag. Available at: https://www.uniqlo.com/au/en/products/E453376-000?colorCode=COL09 (Accessed: 15 October 2023).

The fashion business industry is built on four pillars of sustainability: the planet (sustainable developmental goals or SDGs), people (the consumer), purpose (the brand philosophy), and profit (art, commerce, and ethical practises). The focus of this blog is on the first pillar, planet. People only consider Earth when the word “planet” is mentioned; they never consider the harm we bring to it by going about our daily business, like buying clothes, which at first glance seems routine, but when you think about it more carefully, you realise the damage that buying clothes—or even washing them in the washing machine—causes to our environment.  

“The changing dynamics of the fashion industry have forced retailers to desire low cost and flexibility in design, quality, and speed to market, key strategies to maintain a profitable position in the increasingly demanding market.” (Bhardwaj and Fairhurst, 2010) This increasing demand of “trending apparel” or “a trend” that lasts only a couple of months has resulted in a mass production of fast fashion and results in a higher carbon footprint of the fashion industry. In a recent lecture with Katarina Rimarcikova, we were made aware of the impact of textile production to the environment and that the industry releases 1.2 billion tonnes of carbon dioxide annually thus needing to cut down production by 50% by the year 2030. According to UNEP (2021), the fashion industry accounts for 2 to 8% of worldwide carbon emissions. Textile dyeing is also the world’s second largest polluter of water, with a normal pair of jeans requiring roughly 2,000 gallons of water. (UNEP, 2021) Hence the use of linear system model, which is take, make and waste has resulted in exhaustion of resources and environmental damage. Alternatively, the use of Circular Economy was introduced by the Ellen McArthur Foundation. The circular economy is a system in which materials are never wasted and nature is replenished. Products and materials are kept in circulation in a circular economy through operations such as maintenance, reuse, refurbishment, remanufacture, recycling, and composting. (Ellen McArthur Foundation, no date; Gwilt, 2020)  

To reduce this carbon emission and ecological harm, the United Nations introduced the Sustainable Development Goals or SDGs that “provide a blueprint for peace and prosperity for people and the planet, now and into the future.” (United Nations, no date) Some fashion brands like Patagonia, Primark, Nike, H&M are trying to change their ways and become more sustainable. Recently, pre-loved purchases among young women have become increasingly popular. (Ceron, 2023) “48% of females aged 16-34 have bought second hand fashion items between the years 2022 and 2023.” (Ceron, 2023). 

As all the above points have been demonstrated, we could conclude that to reduce the environmental impact of the fashion industry retailers, brands and us as people living in this planet would benefit from taking a more sustainable approach and contribute to the betterment of the 17 Sustainable Development Goals.  

Bhardwaj, V. Fairhurst, A. (18 February 2010). Fast fashion: response to changes in the fashion industry. Available at: https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/09593960903498300 (Accessed: 05 October 2023). 

Ceron Sender, T. (30 June 2023). Fashion and Sustainability-UK-2023. Available at: https://reports-mintelcom.arts.idm.oclc.org/display/1158169/?fromSearch=%3Ffreetext%3Dtamara%2520sender %2520ceron%2520%26resultPosi?on%3D2 (Accessed: 05 October 2023).

Ellen McArthur Foundation. (no date). Circular Fashion Introduction. Available at: https://ellenmacarthurfounda?on.org/topics/circular-economy-introduction/overview (Accessed: 05 October 2023). 

Gwilt, A. (09 July, 2020). A Practical Guide to Sustainable Fashion. United States of America: Bloomsbury Publishing. (Accessed: 05 October 2023). 

UNEP. (28 June 2021). Putting the brakes on Fast Fashion. Available at: https://www.unep.org/news-and-stories/story/putting-brakes-fast-fashion (Accessed: 05 October 2023). 

United Nations. (no date). The 17 Goals. Available at: https://sdgs.un.org/goals (Accessed: 05 October 2023). 

Figure 1:

Shukla, N. (21 February 2022). Fast Fashion Pollution and Climate Change. Available at: https://earth.org/fast-fashion-pollution-and-climate-change/ (Accessed: 06 October 2023).